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What is the difference between xanthan gum and HEC?

Author: Hou

May. 20, 2024

87 0 0

Gums, Thickeners, and Natural Polymers in Cosmetics

Cosmetic thickeners and natural polymers are essential for adding texture and stabilizing lotions and creams. They also allow for the creation of a variety of gels. Although they serve similar purposes in a product, each has unique characteristics that can affect the final appearance and feel.

The company stands as the global leader in providing hec thickener. We offer a comprehensive selection for all requirements. Our expert team is ready to assist you in finding the product that fits your needs.

Choosing the appropriate ingredient for your project can be daunting, given the numerous options available. While there are many synthetic thickeners and polymers, our focus at Essential is on green chemistry and sustainability, so we've highlighted some of the most popular natural cosmetic thickeners to guide your selection process.

First, let's clarify some terms: a polymer consists of large molecules made of repeating smaller units. All gums are polymers, generally used to stabilize emulsions or create gels. For example, they can thicken a facial mask to prevent it from dripping off. Besides stabilizing and thickening, many natural polymers offer skin benefits, including ingredients like Konjac Powder and Hyaluronic Acid (HA).

NOTE: Don't miss our Hyaluronic Acid Serum recipe at the end of this post.

Mastering the Use of Thickeners and Natural Polymers

Working with natural polymers and thickeners can be simplified with a few tricks. For instance, dispersing a gum in glycerin makes it easier to integrate into your product. While gums generally don’t hydrate in glycerin, they do disperse, reducing the risk of forming 'fish eyes'—clumps that form when a gum hydrates unevenly. If glycerin isn’t suitable for your formulation, you can add your thickener by slowly sprinkling it into your product while using high-shear mixing. This method requires patience and is harder to scale for larger batches.

Xanthan gum, derived from the fermentation of the plant bacteria Xanthomonas Campestris, is the most commonly used natural gum in cosmetics. This anionic polysaccharide disperses in vegetable glycerin but doesn't hydrate. Widely used for its compatibility with most cosmetic ingredients, it’s versatile and readily available.

Xanthan gum hydrates in both hot and cold water, creating a hazy yet neutral pH solution. This gum forms a gel that accommodates a broad range of water-soluble active ingredients. Additionally, Xanthan gum synergizes well with galactomannans like Konjac, substantially boosting gel viscosity. Its resistance to heat and shearing makes Xanthan-stabilized gels highly stable, ideal for products subjected to high temperatures or humid conditions during shipping.

Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) is a nonionic polymer derived from cellulose through a process involving sodium hydroxide and ethylene oxide. This reaction replaces hydrogen atoms in hydroxyl groups with hydroxyethyl groups, yielding a water-soluble polymer. At 1%, HEC forms a clear, colorless pH-neutral gel, distinguishing it from Xanthan gum’s hazy solutions. HEC is soluble in both hot and cold water and is also dispersible in glycerin. It’s compatible with most other gums, working exceptionally well with sodium alginate.

Acacia gum, an anionic polysaccharide sourced from acacia tree sap, dissolves in hot or cold water, producing a clear solution with a neutral to acidic pH. Acacia gum isn’t a thickener unless used in very high concentrations (above 40%), and its viscosity decreases at elevated temperatures, limiting its desirability for most formulations. However, it helps solubilize oils into water without increasing viscosity, making it useful for incorporating essential oils into low-viscosity water-based products like toners and sprays. For best results, use a 3:1 or even 4:1 ratio of acacia to essential oil.

Konjac Powder contains the high-viscosity soluble fiber glucomannan, capable of expanding to 100 times its volume in water, making it an effective humectant. Rich in protein, lipids, fatty acids, vitamins A, B, C, D, and E, and minerals like copper, zinc, and magnesium, Konjac forms a clear, colorless gel. When mixed with xanthan gum, viscosity increases dramatically.

Sclerotium Gum, a non-ionic thickener from a fermented fungus, offers high thermal stability and enhances the skin’s moisture barrier, preventing water loss and maintaining hydration. Forming a gel at 0.8%, it remains stable across various temperatures, salt concentrations, and pH levels. Sclerotium Gum tolerates up to 20% ethanol and 25% glycols. It's an excellent suspending agent, keeping dispersed particles stable, and is ideal for formulations incorporating alpha-hydroxy acids.

Hyaluronic Acid (HLA) forms a pH-neutral, colorless, and crystal-clear gel. Often interchanged with sodium hyaluronate (the salt form of hyaluronic acid designed to minimize oxidation), both are naturally present in the human body. Typically produced through bio-fermentation in labs, hyaluronic acid maintains identical properties to its naturally occurring counterpart, commonly found in skincare products seeking to tap into its hydrating properties.

Molecular Weight Matters: 20,000 Daltons Vs. 2,000,000 Daltons

In the context of hyaluronic acid, the molecular size—measured in Daltons—significantly impacts its function. Smaller molecular weights, although not forming gels, may induce irritation; larger molecular weights form viscous gels, are less irritating, and provide superior hydration. Check out our video for a visual demonstration of different molecular weights and follow our simple recipe to create your hyaluronic acid serum.

Effective Gum Thickeners for Hair and Skincare

Choosing the right gum thickener, like Xanthan gum or hec powder, can dramatically enhance the texture and stability of your hair and skincare formulations. Understanding the unique properties of each thickener helps in creating products that not only stabilize but also provide beneficial attributes to the skin and hair.

BONUS: Hyaluronic Acid Facial Serum Recipe

Equipment You'll Need

  • Stove-top safe pot or beaker
  • Stick blender or high-shear mixer
  • Measuring cups/spoon or scale

DIFFICULTY LEVEL: Easy
Approximate yield: 1 Pound
Approximate cost per pound: $2.54

Suggested Packaging: 1 oz airless pump
Suggested retail price: $15 – $20

For more detailed information, visit our website for hec powder.

Ingredients

 

Directions

  1. Heat water to 120°F – 130°F.
  2. Slowly sprinkle Hyaluronic Acid Powder into the water while mixing with your stick blender or high-shear mixer.
  3. Add Phenoxyethanol and Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate to preserve.
  4. Apply to a clean face after toner/astringent. Let it absorb into the skin before applying moisturizer.

Note that this recipe hasn't been challenge-tested for preservation efficacy. If you intend to sell this product, you must ensure its safety through proper testing.

If you found this post helpful, please leave a comment to let us know. Your feedback helps us create more valuable content.

 

Understanding the Differences between Hydroxyethyl Cellulose and Xanthan Gum

HEC versus Xanthan Gum: An In-depth Comparison

Hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC) and xanthan gum are both widely utilized thickeners in industries ranging from food to pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Both are water-soluble polymers designed to enhance the viscosity and stability of various formulations. Despite their similar roles, they possess distinct properties and are tailored for different applications. This article delves into the properties, functions, and applications of HEC and xanthan gum.

Key Attributes of Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC)

HEC is a nonionic cellulose ether, transformed by adding hydroxyethyl groups to cellulose. Predominantly used as a thickener, stabilizer, and emulsifier, HEC serves multiple industries including food, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics. HEC boasts a high viscosity, forms clear solutions at minimal concentrations, and is highly soluble in water. Its compatibility with many ingredients and its ability to stabilize emulsions and suspensions make it invaluable in diverse formulations.

In cosmetics, HEC is favored for improving the texture and consistency of personal care items such as shampoos, conditioners, lotions, and creams. It can also function as a suspending agent, emulsifier, and binder. HEC’s role in hair care products is noteworthy, as it provides a smooth, creamy texture that enhances product spreadability.

Understanding Xanthan Gum

Xanthan gum, produced through the fermentation of Xanthomonas campestris bacteria, is another popular thickener and stabilizer employed in several industries including food, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics. Its high molecular weight polysaccharide structure endows it with robust thickening capabilities. Xanthan gum demonstrates high viscosity, forms gels at low concentrations, and is highly soluble in water. Its resilience across various temperatures and pH levels further enhances its versatility.

In the food industry, xanthan gum is a common thickener and stabilizer for products like salad dressings, sauces, and baked goods. Its pharmaceutical applications include serving as a suspending agent, and in cosmetics, it is utilized to thicken and stabilize products like lotions and creams.

Comparative Analysis: HEC versus Xanthan Gum

While both HEC and xanthan gum are thickeners, they differ significantly. One primary difference is their source. HEC is derived from plant-based cellulose, whereas xanthan gum is a bacterial fermentation product. This disparity influences their properties and suitability for various applications.

Another distinction lies in their solubility. HEC dissolves easily in water, forming clear solutions even at low concentrations. Xanthan gum, albeit also highly water-soluble, can form gels at similar concentrations, impacting the texture and consistency of formulations.

The viscosity levels of these thickeners further set them apart. HEC's high viscosity makes it an effective thickener across various formulations. Xanthan gum, with a relatively lower viscosity, still forms gels at low concentrations, delivering different textural outcomes.

For further details, please visit hpmc high water retention.

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