Epoxy Coated Wire Mesh for Durability and Versatility

Epoxy-coated wire mesh is a versatile and durable solution designed for a wide range of applications. Essentially, it&#;s a woven wire mesh that&#;s treated with a layer of epoxy coating. This coating not only enhances the durability of the mesh but also provides superior protection against corrosion, wear, and environmental factors. Whether you&#;re looking for a reliable material for industrial filtration, fencing, or structural reinforcement, epoxy-coated wire mesh offers strength and long-lasting performance that far exceeds uncoated wire alternatives.

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With its lightweight yet strong structure, this type of wire mesh is ideal for use in environments where exposure to moisture, chemicals, or extreme temperatures could cause traditional wire mesh to degrade quickly. The epoxy coating forms a protective barrier, ensuring the mesh retains its integrity, even under harsh conditions. It&#;s no wonder epoxy-coated wire mesh has become a go-to choice across industries like construction, security, and filtration.

Why Epoxy Coating?

When it comes to wire mesh, the epoxy coating adds a layer of protection that can significantly extend the product&#;s lifespan. But why exactly is this important? First off, epoxy is known for its excellent adhesive properties, meaning it bonds perfectly with the wire, forming a durable protective layer. This coating makes the mesh far more resistant to rust, corrosion, and other forms of wear caused by harsh environments, be it in industrial settings or outdoors.

The epoxy coating also gives the wire mesh flexibility without sacrificing strength. It&#;s resistant to chemicals, moisture, and even UV rays, making it ideal for both indoor and outdoor applications. In short, while standard wire mesh can easily degrade over time due to exposure, epoxy-coated wire mesh maintains its performance and appearance for years.

Top Applications of Epoxy Coated Wire Mesh

Epoxy-coated wire mesh is a highly versatile product, suitable for a wide range of industries and applications. Here are some of the most common uses:

• Construction & Infrastructure:

  Used for reinforcement, fencing, and protective barriers. Its weather-resistant properties make it perfect for long-term outdoor applications.

• Filtration Systems:

  Essential in industries like water treatment and chemical processing, where high levels of corrosion resistance are required.

• Security & Safety Fencing:

  Ideal for creating secure perimeters around sensitive areas like power plants, warehouses, and commercial buildings.

• Aerospace & Automotive:

  Used in various structural and filtration components, especially where exposure to chemicals or extreme temperatures is a concern.

• Food Processing:

  The non-corrosive nature of the epoxy coating ensures it&#;s safe to use in environments that require hygiene and cleanability.

Whether you&#;re dealing with heavy industrial projects or lightweight applications, the adaptability and reliability of epoxy-coated wire mesh make it a must-have material.

Features and Benefits of Epoxy Coated Wire Mesh

Epoxy-coated wire mesh comes with a host of features that make it an outstanding choice for any application requiring long-lasting performance. Let&#;s break down the key benefits:

• Superior Corrosion Resistance:

  The epoxy coating creates a strong barrier, preventing rust and degradation in both wet and dry environments.

• Weather & Chemical Resistance:

  Capable of withstanding extreme weather conditions, UV exposure, and various chemicals, the mesh won&#;t lose its structural integrity.

• Enhanced Durability:

  The combination of wire mesh strength with the protective epoxy layer means you get a product that lasts longer, even in harsh environments.

• Flexibility & Versatility:

  While incredibly durable, the wire mesh remains flexible, allowing it to adapt to various uses, from construction to filtration.

• Cost-Effective:

  With its longer lifespan and reduced maintenance needs, epoxy-coated wire mesh offers excellent value for money.

By choosing epoxy-coated wire mesh, you invest in a product that not only performs exceptionally well but also reduces the need for frequent replacements.

Why Choose Our Epoxy Coated Wire Mesh?

At Indo German Wire Screen Co., we pride ourselves on delivering only the highest quality epoxy-coated wire mesh. What sets us apart? For starters, we use premium materials and state-of-the-art technology to ensure that every mesh product meets the highest industry standards. Whether you need a standard size or a customized solution, we&#;ve got you covered.

We offer various mesh configurations, wire thicknesses, and coatings, ensuring you get exactly what you need for your specific project. Our epoxy-coated wire mesh is meticulously crafted to provide maximum strength, longevity, and performance&#;something our competitors can&#;t always promise. Plus, with fast shipping and responsive customer service, we make sure your orders are handled with care and delivered on time.

How Epoxy Coated Wire Mesh Stands Out from the Competition

In today&#;s market, not all wire meshes are created equal, and our epoxy-coated wire mesh is a cut above the rest. So, what makes it stand out?

• Quality of Coating:

  We use high-grade epoxy coatings that adhere perfectly to the wire, ensuring complete protection from rust, chemicals, and weather conditions. Many competitors use lower-quality coatings, which can flake or wear off more quickly.

• Customization:

  We offer tailor-made solutions, allowing you to choose the mesh size, thickness, and epoxy color that suits your needs. Competitors often have limited options, forcing you to compromise.

• Attention to Detail:

  From production to quality control, we meticulously inspect every product to ensure it meets rigorous standards. This dedication to precision sets us apart from other suppliers who may cut corners.

If you&#;re looking for reliability, performance, and value, our epoxy-coated wire mesh is the clear choice.

Order Your Epoxy Coated Wire Mesh Today

Ready to elevate your project with a product that&#;s designed to last? Ordering from Indo German Wire Screen Co. is simple and hassle-free. Whether you need a small batch or bulk quantities, we offer flexible ordering options to suit your needs. Not sure what type of mesh is best for your application? Our experienced team is here to help guide you through the selection process and answer any questions you might have.

Get in touch with us today to request a quote or place an order. With competitive pricing, fast delivery, and exceptional product quality, we&#;re confident you&#;ll find exactly what you&#;re looking for.

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Fabian

Thanks alot.

I hope I've formulated myself correctly!

One more question (i hope): Can the reinforcement be cut smaller than the edge of the mould, or does it have to be almost at the gum tape?

There is breather material included in my starter pack and it is also mentioned in the instructions, yet not in the video. I assume I should be using it.

Is this a good combination and how much IN2 resin will I need based on the information?

The first mould I want to do is 70x40cm and approx. 7cm deep at its deepest point. I am planning to use 2 layers 200g carbon cloth and 2 layers of approx 150g e-glass.

I am just about ready to start my first infusion and would like a few tips.

I modified my moulds so there would be sufficient flange space by adding a frame and a high-gloss surface to ensure that I can pull 100% vac.

Due to wanting cosmetically perfect parts and after consultation from the EC staff I decided to go for resin infusion instead.

I have been working on a project for a fair while now, and I'm starting to see light at the end of the tunnel. As you can see in the attached pictures I started out with an unflanged mould in sight of using a wet lay-up technique.

Hi all,

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When all your fabric is cut to size, you need to weight it. Then, ideally, you would want 40% of this weight in resin. BUT, keep in mind that your resin feed line, infusion spiral, distribution mesh etc will consume resin too.

So mix a little more resin that what the fabric layers should take.

Breather material is not needed if you go for the infusion. Usually in infusion, the stack is: mold, release agents, fabric, peel-ply, distribution mesh, vacuum bag.

Breather is used when you hand wet your fabric in your mold and then put it under vacuum. Breather will act as uniform pressure distribution as well as soaking the excess resin thru a perforated release film.

The reinforcment should "stop" anywhere between your part flange (to have enough material to trim your part) and your gum tape. I usually leave fabric at 1 inch from part flanges, and 1 inch from the gum tape.

Hope it helps.

&nbsp



&nbsp


&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbspA $ electronic device will always protect a 10 cents fuse

Hi,When all your fabric is cut to size, you need to weight it. Then, ideally, you would want 40% of this weight in resin. BUT, keep in mind that your resin feed line, infusion spiral, distribution mesh etc will consume resin too.So mix a little more resin that what the fabric layers should take.Breather material is not needed if you go for the infusion. Usually in infusion, the stack is: mold, release agents, fabric, peel-ply, distribution mesh, vacuum bag.Breather is used when you hand wet your fabric in your mold and then put it under vacuum. Breather will act as uniform pressure distribution as well as soaking the excess resin thru a perforated release film.The reinforcment should "stop" anywhere between your part flange (to have enough material to trim your part) and your gum tape. I usually leave fabric at 1 inch from part flanges, and 1 inch from the gum tape.Hope it helps.&nbsp&nbsp

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Fabian 

Thanks again,

I am looking towards one or two strips of mesh and then into the pot, at least for my first go. I have bin through the trial and error stages with my moulds and have gotten them close to perfect. It was just so much work so far, but I enjoyed almost all of it thoroughly. I really want to get a perfect infusion the first time round and am taking my time and minding all the precautions.

What would you suggest?

I understand what you mean about the breather fabric. I remember now how it was explained to me. Where the vacuum line exits to catch pot, some say to put a strip of the breather under the silicone connector to catch excess resin which would otherwise land in the catch pot. Then others say just a couple strips of infusion mesh on top of each other under the connector. Some only use one strip of mesh and then the connector.

Roughly, could you recommend percentage-wise how much extra should be included for the consumables? around 10-15 % or is that not enough?

It does help indeed. I am fairly new to infusion and still learning everything I can. I was fixed on the resin ratio table and it totally slipped my mind that I could calculate according to weight of reinforcement and a little more. Thanks for the great tip. I will use this method.

Thanks alot Joe!

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What I personally do in a new part is weighting a little more resin that what the fabric takes. Say I mix 300 grs when I have 270 grs cloth. Then I look at the resin feed liner and if I notice I wont have enough, I clamp the resin feed, get a new liner, and mix a bit more resin (be carefull if you use fast catalyst not to take too much your time doing this). Then I pour it in the first liner when my feed line is. The second liner / pour method is used to mix the second batch of resin to avoid entrapping air in the feed line.

So next time you know how much resin weight you need. I keep track of everything in my computer so I know what I need exactly for this or that part (resin weight, feed line lengths, spiral length etc etc).  

I use double layer of distribution mesh under my vacuum line connector, but I'm not saying its the best way. Thats just how I do.

Dont forget the pics when you're done

&nbsp



&nbsp


&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbspA $ electronic device will always protect a 10 cents fuse

Honestly, I have no clue how much more resin you should mix. I really think it depends on your consumables: how long is your feed line, how long is your spiral etc.What I personally do in a new part is weighting a little more resin that what the fabric takes. Say I mix 300 grs when I have 270 grs cloth. Then I look at the resin feed liner and if I notice I wont have enough, I clamp the resin feed, get a new liner, and mix a bit more resin (be carefull if you use fast catalyst not to take too much your time doing this). Then I pour it in the first liner when my feed line is. The second liner / pour method is used to mix the second batch of resin to avoid entrapping air in the feed line.So next time you know how much resin weight you need. I keep track of everything in my computer so I know what I need exactly for this or that part (resin weight, feed line lengths, spiral length etc etc).I use double layer of distribution mesh under my vacuum line connector, but I'm not saying its the best way. Thats just how I do.Dont forget the pics when you're done&nbsp&nbsp

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cheers

Anyway, I got really excited to see it pulling vacuum first time, only to be set back. Oh well, I'm not going to give up after coming this far.

Thing is I have a busy schedule and don't always manage to get to the workshop, but I reckon I will just use a new bag and new tape. I will measure my pleats and make the bag exactly bigger to accommodate them, so I don't have too much and wont have to worry about having too many wrinkles. Any tips on how to best put the bag down?

Are there any other methods to check where the leak is, smoke or something?

I checked the next morning and the bag was still quite tight and the gauge was at about 1/3 vac. I was quite frustrated, but happy I didn't infuse. There must be some tiny tiny leak somewhere, but I checked and checked and didn't hear any leaking, it is too small. Also I couldn't get it sealed.

The problem was, after the drop test i heard a tiny crackle here and there and lost a few marks on the gauge. Pushed and pushed hard all over the tape, checked the connectors, re-did one of the connectors and tried again and again, the gauge kept changing. I watched the gauge drop 1-1/2 marks over aprox 20 mins. Vane not moving at all.

I am using the flow indicator vane, and after a pushing down on a couple bigger leaks I managed to pull full vac.

Regardless, I stuck the first bag, it was a tad small with the pleats, so I used another, plenty big enough.

Had the whole procedure learned and in my head. It was quite a challenge to lay the stack to my odd shaped mould. I applied easy lease and built the stack. My masking tape would hardly stick at all so I used gaffer tape on the infusion mesh. I hope that was okay.

So, first things first, Easycomposites makes everything look so easy lol!!! Great instructions, videos and tips on the forum!

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I'm not a composite expert at all, but i notice that you gum tape is not directly positioned on the vinyl gel coat.

Maybe your leak come from the wood/mould junction?

did you add something on this junction to ensure a perfect seal?

Regards, and good luck for your drop test!

Seb.

Hi Baja,I'm not a composite expert at all, but i notice that you gum tape is not directly positioned on the vinyl gel coat.Maybe your leak come from the wood/mould junction?did you add something on this junction to ensure a perfect seal?Regards, and good luck for your drop test!Seb.

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If your leak is too little to be noticed, what about wraping the whole mold in the vacuum bag? Then even if your mold has tiny cracks, the bag will enclose them.

If you do so, be careful with sharp edges on your mold that could damage the bag.

Good luck !

&nbsp



&nbsp


&nbsp&nbsp&nbsp&nbspA $ electronic device will always protect a 10 cents fuse

Hi,If your leak is too little to be noticed, what about wraping the whole mold in the vacuum bag? Then even if your mold has tiny cracks, the bag will enclose them.If you do so, be careful with sharp edges on your mold that could damage the bag.Good luck !&nbsp&nbsp

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SebRS (04/05/)Hi Baja,

I'm not a composite expert at all, but i notice that you gum tape is not directly positioned on the vinyl gel coat.

Maybe your leak come from the wood/mould junction?

did you add something on this junction to ensure a perfect seal?

Regards, and good luck for your drop test!

Seb.

Hi Baja,I'm not a composite expert at all, but i notice that you gum tape is not directly positioned on the vinyl gel coat.Maybe your leak come from the wood/mould junction?did you add something on this junction to ensure a perfect seal?Regards, and good luck for your drop test!Seb.

cheers

It seems like a whole lot of extra work. So before I consider doing that and before I remove the the stack, I will give it another go with the bag on top as instructed on Monday, hopefully it was just a first time bagging error and I will get her to seal.

I hope that the mould is tight. I was also considering bagging the whole thing in a tube, I would need to sand and/or apply some sort of soft fabric around the wooden sides and the bottom, because the bottom is pretty rough due to the putty and fixing method of the flanges.

Thanks Joe,

Yes I know what you mean, but I extended those flanges on purpose, its plywood with a layer of glass fiber and then a gloss coat of epoxy. I really hope that its air tight, I assume it is though. The joint is epoxied and then the subsequent top layers.

Thanks guys,

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Use this Guide to resin usage to work out how much you need to infuse.

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Thanks for the tips so far. Status update. I managed the infusion, didnt come out quite as expected but I have definitely learned A LOT.

I bagged it up perfectly with one small leak which I sealed in seconds.The mould was airtight as expected. 

I calculated the resin quantity according to a 60/40 ratio and some more for consumables and began the infusion. It was fast, very fast. 

The 250 grams of resin which should have been perfectly adequate were used up in about 30 seconds. It was all a bit hectic and I got some air into the infusion before I could top up resin. I knew it would cause problems in the surface and was very annoyed at the time. It was only one of my problems in hindsight. 

I cured at elevated room temperature of about 33 degrees for 24 hours and went to demould. The easylease did its job perfectly, yet the part was very difficult to de-mould due to the high quantity of resin. I ended up using about 500g. 

The reason I needed so much resin became apparent as soon as I demoulded.There was no bridging in the bag whatsoever, it was tight all over the surface and the pleats did their magic. The problem was I had voids underneath the carbon, it did not reach all the recesses of my quite complex mould. It was a bit of an ambitious mould, deep and recessed in multiple ways as can be seen in the attached pictures. 

I have noted all my mistakes and will not be repeating them next time round. 

Couple of questions, 

I think I will need to tack the carbon cloth into all the recesses beforehand (pre-preg style) I will be using profinish for my top layers from now on. How do I best go about doing so? Is it even possible? 

Shall I put down a tack gel coat, shall I use 3M spray glue (if so, which one) or equivalent? 

Or is there a special product to tack the cloth into all recesses?

As you can see there are quite a few large and small air bubbles, due to the fact that air entered the feedline because the resin was busy filling the huge air voids very quickly. 

I will be extra careful next time, not to let it get too low. I have included pics of the mould, infusion, finished part, and a pic of how the body should look when its all trimmed and finished (in carbon)

thanks alot everybody, any tips whatsoever are very welcome. 

cheers

Fabian

12 Years Ago by

baja_patient

Edited

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