Ultimate Guide to Hydraulic Hose Fittings

You can find hydraulic fittings in almost every industry. They form secure, leak-proof connections between hoses, pipes, and other components in a hydraulic system. But with a wide range of types and sizes, navigating the world of hydraulic hose fittings can be tricky. This guide will equip you with the knowledge to choose, install, and connect these crucial components.

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Table of Contents

This comprehensive hydraulic hose fittings guide will help readers understand the different types of hydraulic hose fittings, their materials, and how to install and maintain them.

What Is a Hydraulic Fitting?

A hydraulic system uses the properties of pressurized fluid to move mechanical energy. The energy is transferred from one point to another using fluid inside hydraulic hoses, which are attached to machinery using hydraulic fittings.

Hydraulic fittings must attach securely to the equipment and hose and must withstand high pressure and temperatures. Fittings are made in different sizes, materials, types of seals, and temperature and pressure tolerances.

Some fittings enable fluid flow, others prevent it, and some are designed to do both. The most important function of a fitting is to create a tight seal that keeps fluid in and contaminants out.

Crimped Hydraulic Fittings & Field Attachable Fittings

Fittings can be attached to hoses either permanently or with a field connection.

Crimped Fittings

A permanently attached fitting is known as a crimped fitting. Crimped fittings are secured onto the hose with a crimping machine that crimps (bends) the fitting to ensure a resilient connection that is difficult to break.

Traditionally, all crimped fittings needed to be brought to a workbench to be attached to the hose, though with tool advancements, there are now portable crimpers that can be used in the field.

Hydraulic Couplers

A field-connection hydraulic fitting, also known as a hydraulic coupler, can be installed anywhere without a crimping tool and used multiple times. It is comprised of a socket and a nipple, and it allows for a blend of convenience and adaptability when immediate adjustments or replacements are required.

However, field connections are not generally recommended as they offer limited pressure capabilities and are often points of hose failure. We recommend using permanent crimped fittings on all hydraulic systems.

Hydraulic Hose Fitting Materials

Hydraulic hose fittings are manufactured using different materials, depending on the application and budget. Here are the most common hydraulic hose fitting materials and their characteristics:

• Steel Hydraulic Fittings: These fittings are made from steel and are impressively strong and durable.
  • Carbon Steel: Non-stainless carbon steel can withstand extreme temperatures ranging from -63.4 degrees Fahrenheit to 500 degrees Fahrenheit (-53°C to 260°C). Non-stainless steel is not as corrosion-resistant as stainless steel is, though it is often more affordable.
  • Stainless Steel Fittings: Stainless steel contains more complex alloys that offer a great range of material properties. Stainless steel fittings can be made to handle temperatures from -423.4 degrees Fahrenheit to degrees Fahrenheit (-253 °C up to 648 °C). Stainless steel fittings can be rated for up to 10,000 psi, and with special designs, they can withstand up to an incredible 20,000 psi. While stainless steel fittings offer the best strength and durability, they are also the most expensive.
• Brass Fittings: Brass hydraulic fittings are very popular for their excellent mix of corrosion resistance, durability, affordability, and strength. Brass has a temperature tolerance of -63.4 degrees Fahrenheit to 399 degrees Fahrenheit (-53°C to 204°C) and a pressure rating that peaks around 3,000 psi.

Choosing the right hydraulic fitting material for your application is important for a long-lasting, safe solution.

Types of Hydraulic Hose Fittings

There are many different types of hydraulic fittings. Different countries have different standards and types of fittings, though some machines and equipment may also favor one type over another.

Here are the main types of hydraulic hose fittings:

American Hydraulic Fittings Standards

• NPT (National Pipe Tapered): A time-tested standard using tapered threads for sealing. Available in various materials to handle different pressure needs. Size is determined by thread diameter minus 1/4 inch.
• NPTF (National Pipe Tapered Fuel): Popular for leak-proof connections in hydraulic systems. Tightening creates a metal-to-metal seal where the threads deform to create a permanent seal. Size is similar to NPT, measured by thread diameter minus 1/4 inch.
• NPSM (National Pipe Straight Mechanical): Utilizes straight threads with a 30° seat for sealing. If chamfered correctly, it is compatible with NPTF males.
• SAE Standards (Society of Automotive Engineers): A comprehensive range of fitting types like ORB, JIC, and ORFS, catering to diverse pressure and sealing requirements.
  • ORB Fittings (O-Ring Boss): Ideal for high-pressure applications, these fittings use a straight thread and an O-ring for a secure seal.
  • JIC Fittings (Joint Industry Council 37° Flare): A widely used fitting in hydraulics. Sealing is achieved by a 37° cone on the male part mating with the female&#;s flared tube.
  • ORFS Fittings (O-Ring Face Seal): The go-to choice for superior leak prevention, especially in high-vibration environments. Features a flat sealing surface with an O-ring on the male part.

British & ISO Fitting Standards

• British Standard Pipe (BSP): Includes BSPT (tapered) and BSPP (parallel) threads. BSPT relies on thread deformation and sealants, while BSPP uses metal-to-metal contact or O-rings. Threads are marked with &#;G&#; for parallel or &#;R&#; for tapered to help with identification.
• ISO (Metric) Standards: Examples include ISO (4-bolt flange) and ISO (metric threads). Sealing is achieved using O-rings compressed into a chamfer, similar to SAE ORB.

German Fitting Standards

• DIN : A common metric fitting with a 60° cone on the male part. Sealing occurs between the cone and the female&#;s tapered nose.
• DIN : Offers various female connection options like compression and flareless swivel. The male part has a 24° angle, and some female options may include O-rings.
• DIN : DIN fittings are a popular choice in hydraulic applications globally, setting a standard for connector and port designs. Their versatility makes them compatible with various hose sizes and metric threads.

Japanese Fitting Standards

• JIS Tapered Pipe (PT) and 30° Seat Connections: These are similar to BSP but designed for Japanese standards. They are interchangeable with BSPT fittings.
• JIS 4-Bolt Flange: This flanged head with grooves for O-rings and bolts provides a secure connection. It is available in standard and high-pressure series.

3 Hydraulic Hose Fitting Connection Types

There are three main types of hydraulic hose fitting connections:

1. O-Ring Face Seal Fittings (ORF): As the name suggests, an O-ring is on the face of the fitting. When the side with the O-ring connects with the flat face of the female, a seal is formed. ORFS are ideal for high-pressure applications and can operate up to 6,000 psi. They are preferred because they are less likely to be over or under-tightened.
2. Mated Angle Fittings: These fittings have thread, followed by an angled plane that creates a taper along the whole fitting, which is referred to as the &#;flare.&#; The threads do not form the seal; instead, when the male and female sides are threaded together, the flares meet up and create a seal. SAE 45° and JIC 37° are common examples of mated angle fittings. They rely on the wedge effect of the angled surfaces for a tight seal without requiring any additional sealants like O-rings. This makes them suitable for high-pressure applications (up to 9,000 psi).
3. Tapered Thread Fittings: In a tapered thread fitting, the male has threads on the outside, while the female has threads on the inside. The threads deform when tightened to create a seal. This seal is prone to failure under high pressure and is frequently over-torqued, destroying its integrity. Tapered thread fittings aren&#;t used for high-pressure hydraulic and pneumatic systems, but they can be seen in low- to medium-pressure systems.

How to Select the Right Hydraulic Fitting

Choosing the right hydraulic fitting is crucial for a safe and efficient hydraulic system. Here&#;s a breakdown of the key factors to consider. Several of these considerations are summarized as a STAMP acronym:

• S

  ize: This refers to the diameter and the thread type of the fitting. It should seamlessly match the hose or tubing you&#;re connecting. Common sizing standards include NPT, BSP, and metric (ISO), which are described above.

• T

  emperature: It is important to consider both the operating temperature of your system and the ambient temperature where the fitting will be used. Some materials may become brittle or lose strength at extreme temperatures.

• A

  pplication: Consider the fitting&#;s function within the system. Fittings designed to handle high-vibration environments may be required, while quick-connect options might be ideal for easy assembly and disassembly.

• A

  ssembly: Related to the application, how will the fitting be attached to the hose or tubing? Crimped fittings are permanent and durable, while reusable fittings are more flexible.

• M

  aterial: The fitting material needs to be compatible with the hydraulic fluid being used and withstand the system&#;s pressure.

• P

  ressure: The fitting&#;s pressure rating must exceed the maximum pressure your hydraulic system will generate. Selecting a fitting below the system&#;s maximum pressure can lead to catastrophic failure.
• Fluid: Different fluids have varying properties, which may affect the choice of fitting material. The fluid must be compatible with the fitting material to avoid corrosion or degradation.

By carefully evaluating these factors, you can select the most appropriate hydraulic fitting for your application. If you have any doubts about the selection process, it is recommended that you consult a hydraulics professional&#;especially for complex systems.

Hydraulic Hose Fitting Installation & Maintenance Guide

The key to a long-lasting hydraulic hose system is proper installation and maintenance.

Installing a Hydraulic Hose Fitting

To ensure a leak-free, secure connection, you must pay careful attention to detail. Here are five steps to installing a hydraulic hose fitting:

1. Select the Appropriate Fitting

Choosing the appropriate fitting for the job requires considering the hose size, fitting type, connection type, and hydraulic system&#;s psi and temperature ratings. The fitting should be rated for more pressure and temperature than the hydraulic system&#;s rating to create room for a safety margin.

2. Cut & Prepare the Hose

The next step in crimping a hydraulic hose is to prepare it by cutting it to the required length. To ensure the hose is contaminate-free, make sure the cut is clean and straight and remove debris inside and outside of the cut end.

3. Crimp or Assemble the Fitting

Follow the manufacturer&#;s instructions on crimping your fitting. You&#;ll need to choose the correct crimper diameter die set. Put the fitting all the way on the hose and secure the fitting at the insertion mark with a soft mallet.

Adjust your crimping machine&#;s settings to ensure the crimp is just right. Too tight or too loose, and the hose will fail. Set the hose on the machine so that the fitting sits just above the die and crimp it.

4. Conduct a Visual Inspection

After crimping the fittings, inspect the assembly to ensure everything is properly aligned. There should be no defects or irregularities.

5. Install Protective Caps & Test the Connection

After crimping the hose, use a protective plug to prevent contaminants from entering the hose or fittings. Then, a pressure test will be performed to check for leaks or other problems. Be sure to follow safety protocols, as testing under high pressure represents several safety concerns.

Hydraulic Fitting Maintenance

Just like any component, hydraulic fittings require regular maintenance. Here are some key hydraulic fitting maintenance practices to keep your fittings in top shape:

• Regular Inspections: Conduct visual inspections of your fittings at regular intervals, looking for signs of wear, corrosion, cracks, or loose connections. Pay close attention to areas around the threads and where the fitting connects to the hose or tubing.
• Cleaning: Dirt, debris, and contaminants can compromise the integrity of the seal and accelerate wear. Regularly clean your fittings using a mild soap solution and warm water. Avoid harsh chemicals or abrasive tools that might damage the fitting&#;s finish.
• Tightening: Over time, vibrations and pressure fluctuations can cause fittings to loosen slightly. Use a torque wrench to periodically check and tighten fittings to the manufacturer&#;s recommended specifications. Be careful&#;over-tightening can damage the threads or fitting body.
• Hose Condition: The health of the hose directly impacts the fittings. Regularly inspect hoses for signs of wear, damage, or bulging. Replace any compromised hoses and prevent them from putting undue stress on the fittings.
• Fluid Monitoring: Hydraulic fluid can degrade over time or even become contaminated. Maintain a regular fluid change schedule as recommended by your system&#;s manual. The fluid&#;s cleanliness plays a vital role in preventing corrosion and wear on fittings.
• Storage: When storing spare fittings, keep them in a clean, dry environment away from direct sunlight and extreme temperatures. This will help prevent corrosion and ensure they are ready for use when needed.

Visually inspect the fitting for damage, deformations, cracks, or corrosion. Replace the fitting if there are any signs of decay. Remove the O-ring and thoroughly clean the fitting, then replace the O-ring with a new one, regardless of how the old O-ring looks. Check that the threads run true and the fitting is ready to be reused!

Note that permanently crimped hydraulic hose fittings are designed for one use only and cannot be reused.

Hydraulic Hose Experts

Need help with your hydraulic fittings? IBT&#;s expert Hydraulic Division is ready to assist you. Whether you need to know which fitting works best for your application or a full hydraulic system design, our professionals will walk you through the best solutions.

With over a million dollars in industrial hose and fitting inventory, we have all the parts you need. Browse our hydraulic fittings from our ShopIBT store.

Our Kansas City Industrial Hose Shop also provides everything from simple repairs to fully assembled hydraulic systems.

We also offer Hydraulic Systems 101 Academy Safety, Maintenance, and Troubleshooting classes to train your technicians.

Contact us to learn more about our hydraulic systems and fittings services and products.

hose and fittings question ....

hose and fittings question ....

xtal01

(Mechanical)

(OP)

10 Mar 16 21:14

So, the last time I bought hydraulic hoses from a local supplier (who has since gone out of business), I simply told him I needed a 36" long hose with 3/8" NPT fittings (for a snow plow) ... I don't think he even asked what pressure rating, just assuming it was under psi. He didn't ask me how may wire lays or if I wanted "w" type fittings or much of anything.

Anyway .... I was about to order a flex hose and was a bit confused by my chooses.

I need: 36" long, I am running under psi (max my power unit will put out ... relief set to psi), SAE (ORB) 08 (1/2")fittings

So, the first item I pick is "hydraulax tough" from Discount Hydraulic Hose. 2 wire, psi, 3 1/2" bend radius .... $2.50 a ft ... looks great.

Then I keep reading ... R12 "very high pressure hose" ... 4 wire! but it only is rated at 4,000 psi with a 7" bend radius and costing $5 per ft.

And there are obviously other chooses (R16, R17, ...)

So two questions ....

1) as long as the pressure ratings are OK, is does it matter what hose I choose? I would have thought more wire wrap layers is better but yet the one with 4 layers has a lower pressure rating that the one with 2 layers.

2) some say "braided hose fittings" (standard crimp), some say "series W fittings" (bite to wire) and some give me a choose of either. I tried to find an explanation on the web ... I don't see one. I "assume" (but wanted to check with you guys" that the "bit to wire" fittings were better as I am guessing they penetrate the outer layer of rubber and "dig in" to the outer wire wrap layer.

Just want to make sure I order the correct hose.

Thanks ...... Mike

Replies continue below

Recommended for you

RE: hose and fittings question ....

hydtools

(Mechanical)

11 Mar 16 00:05

The bite through fitting may be appropriate for the heavier cover "10X" more abrasion resistant Tough hose.

Mixing fitting brand and hose brand may be risky, especially if the crimping equipment does not correctly crimp the fitting to the hose, bite through or not.

Will the hose shop assure fitting and hose will meet your pressure requirements? Who manufactures the Hydraulax branded hose?

You pays your money and takes your chances.

A lot of what you are reading is puffery.The bite through fitting may be appropriate for the heavier cover "10X" more abrasion resistant Tough hose.Mixing fitting brand and hose brand may be risky, especially if the crimping equipment does not correctly crimp the fitting to the hose, bite through or not.Will the hose shop assure fitting and hose will meet your pressure requirements? Who manufactures the Hydraulax branded hose?You pays your money and takes your chances.

Ted

RE: hose and fittings question ....

xtal01

(Mechanical)

(OP)

Recommended article:
What are the disadvantages of magnetic drive pumps?
What is the Best Foam to Use for Sofa Cushions?

You will get efficient and thoughtful service from zkhthydraulics.

11 Mar 16 00:38

Hmmmmm ...

So I take it,what you are telling me is that I should think about using a "name brand" hose?

So is one better than another I see Parker, Eaton, Gates ( I think I had gates on my snow plow ) ....?

Does the same go for fittings? Is a "brand name" fitting better than a "no name" brand? Is there a brand I should think about?

I just made the bad assumption that if they were "rated" for a certain pressure, they would work but maybe this is not the case?

Thanks ..... Mike

RE: hose and fittings question ....

xtal01

(Mechanical)

(OP)

11 Mar 16 01:04

I should have asked also ... are all hydraulic hoses OK to use with synthetic oil?

I was planning on using the Royal Purple "Syndraulic". I did confirm that the oil is compatible with the buna seals in my pump.

Thanks again .... mike

RE: hose and fittings question ....

xtal01

(Mechanical)

(OP)

11 Mar 16 01:33

I did more reading and may have found one answer ...

http://hydraulicspneumatics.com/200/TechZone/Hydra...

I looked at this page and it has a chart saying only hose 100R7, 100R8 and 100R14 are compatible with synthetic fluids.

Discount Hydraulic Hose does not even sell any of these hoses!

I am confused a bit ( nothing new ) .... the guys at Royal Purple (actual factory not local rep) is telling me their fluid is compatible with petroleum based oil as they recommend it at a replacement for "regular" hydraulic oils.

Then why is there only three hoses that are "rated" for synthetic oil???

Thanks again ..... Mike

Sooooooooooo (sorry ... I keep adding to my post) ....I did more reading and may have found one answer ...I looked at this page and it has a chart saying only hose 100R7, 100R8 and 100R14 are compatible with synthetic fluids.Discount Hydraulic Hose does not even sell any of these hoses!I am confused a bit ( nothing new ) .... the guys at Royal Purple (actual factory not local rep) is telling me their fluid is compatible with petroleum based oil as they recommend it at a replacement for "regular" hydraulic oils.Then why is there only three hoses that are "rated" for synthetic oil???Thanks again ..... Mike

RE: hose and fittings question ....

hydtools

(Mechanical)

11 Mar 16 01:36

Back to fittings. The bite through would be used with non-skive hose and the other crimp fitting would be used with skived hose. Skive=remove the outer cover. Non-skive=do not remove the outer cover.

You have to look at the inner tube material for compatibility with your synthetic oil. Or look at the synthetic oil material compatibility list.Back to fittings. The bite through would be used with non-skive hose and the other crimp fitting would be used with skived hose. Skive=remove the outer cover. Non-skive=do not remove the outer cover.

Ted

RE: hose and fittings question ....

xtal01

(Mechanical)

(OP)

11 Mar 16 01:44

Got it!

I was just about to write Royal Purple and ask their advice on hydraulic hose.

It is amazing how something as simple as wanting to use synthetic fluid can affect so many things. As I said in earlier post, I don't "need' to use synthetic fluid, I was just going to as I know it has superior lubricating qualities especially during start-up.

In honesty, I will probably take out the flex line when I am do setting the lift and pump. Right now the lift has some adjustment in it so I can align the lift. The original forklift was designed with a slight tilt (backward) of the mast. I need the lift to travel "straight" up to maintain the clearance between the car and the walls. I need the flex till I get everything set and lock in place.

Thanks again ..... Mike

RE: hose and fittings question ....

MikeHalloran

(Mechanical)

11 Mar 16 02:27

Since you intend to lift a car with the mast, I assume you'd be really upset about the consequences of a catastrophic hose failure.

... which is a good reason to deal with a local supplier who will make exactly the hose assembly you need, using compatible hose and fittings.

If you homebrew the hose assembly from random internet sources, and something goes wrong, who you gonna call?

Forklifts tilt the mast to put a little slope on the fork roots, forward or back, to ease engagement and to compensate for deflection. If you are using a forklift mast, it's a good feature to retain, and in turn requires inclusion of a short hose section at the hinge.Since you intend to lift a car with the mast, I assume you'd be really upset about the consequences of a catastrophic hose failure.... which is a good reason to deal with a local supplier who will make exactly the hose assembly you need, using compatible hose and fittings.If you homebrew the hose assembly from random internet sources, and something goes wrong, who you gonna call?

Mike Halloran
Pembroke Pines, FL, USA

RE: hose and fittings question ....

xtal01

(Mechanical)

(OP)

11 Mar 16 02:57

Actually, I am using the lift as an elevator ... I know, scary thought.

It is for personal use so I don't have to worry about liability and such .... wife may kill me but she will not sue me if it breaks.

Even though the original forklift was designed for lbs of lift, I will have a load of 500 - 700 lbs ( electric wheelchair with a person and maybe an one person riding with them.

I didn't think about the deflection of the mast ( I should have ), I was just thinking they did this because of the "play" in the mast sections.

I am thinking I will load up the car (oh ... car .... now I know why you thought it was for a vehicle) .... sorry, load up the platform ( with solid walls and gate, open top ), with a load ( I was planning on using barrels filled with water ), and see if I can get the unit to lift "straight" up. I want this so I can maintain the clearances between the car and the wall.

With such a small load, I am guessing I will have a minimal defection of the mast. I will find out shortly.

I did order a velocity fuse (hose brake valve). I am (or was ... I will have to see if anything moves when everything is bolted down) planning to hard pipe everything. I was trying to get rid of one more possible failure point ... the hose.

Again, I am overbuilding ( and overthinking ) everything .... I do this on all my projects .... drives people crazy (but this was a good thing and encouraged when I worked in a nuclear plant). There will be no shock load since I have a flow control valve to slowly bring the flow up and down an the beginning and end of the lift. Since the load will be so small, the pressure will only be about 500 PSI. The lift is inside so no UV light, weather or such.

I just keep going over things one by one as I put the system together.

Thanks again ..... Mike

RE: hose and fittings question ....

MikeHalloran

(Mechanical)

11 Mar 16 03:13

I'm pretty sure this will end up more expensive than a wheelchair lift you can buy, but it will be a learning experience.

Mike Halloran
Pembroke Pines, FL, USA

RE: hose and fittings question ....

xtal01

(Mechanical)

(OP)

11 Mar 16 03:45

We started building almost 4 years ago. We had ledge just below the surface. We got a quote for $30k to dynamite the basement out. We got two companies in to give us a quote on an elevator ... two quotes ... $15K, plus we found a grant for $10K so $5K out of pocket. Great, so we decided to raise the house out of the ground. The ground floor is now our basement ( unfinished ), the first floor is now 10 ft up. The price of building a first floor out of the ground was much cheaper that just the $30K to dynamite a basement out. It actually worked out well since we live in VT ( very rural ) ...one side of the house overlooks a small river and the other looks out over a wetlands to the mountains.

Anyway, this year we got both companies in ... both came in close to $40K .... OUCH! Even after a $10K grant, we don't have $30K.

So I bought the forklift for only $850 .... with valves, a spare power unit (for an auto lift ... $500), and a plc to run the flow valve and control the interlocks ... I am thinking $3K to $4K in the project.

I am a machinist by trade and also an electronic controls specialist. So most of this project is straight forward for me. I have interlocks ( so doors are lock when the car is in the wrong location), over travel switches (that kill power, not just tell the plc to shut down), timers to shut off a pump if it runs too long (I saw a contactor weld itself on once and a motor burn up). The main power is two 12 volt deep cycle batteries so it will run even if the power goes out. I have separate batteries for the controls so I don't loose them even if the batteries on the pump go low.

My shop is not built yet (poured the pad last year ... will start it right after I finish this elevator ... wife is getting tired of living in the "basement"). I do have a welder inside the house so I can build the platform.

It is an interesting project ... and I am learning a great deal about hydraulics!

Really, I am sure most of the cost of medical equipment is driven by liability insurance and by insurance. If you look at the cost of anything with the word "medical" on it, it is usually a rip off. If I remember correctly, her last electric wheelchair (it has a tilt function so you can lay back ... to stop pressure soars) lists at $40K !!!!!!!!!!!!! She has insurance thought the state so I am not sure how much they actually paid for it but I am sure it was a lot.

I have learned to build many items myself. My wife need care every 4 hours thus she had never traveled (she broke her neck when she was 12 diving into a pool and is paralyzed from the shoulders down).

Just FYI ... here is a link to an old RV I converted 8 years ago so we could travel ( we ended up living in it for three years ... freezing when temps hit -30)

Again, cost driven project .... $18K for the motor home ... they wanted $25K for a lift!

Thanks .... Mike

Actually, you would be surprise ....We started building almost 4 years ago. We had ledge just below the surface. We got a quote for $30k to dynamite the basement out. We got two companies in to give us a quote on an elevator ... two quotes ... $15K, plus we found a grant for $10K so $5K out of pocket. Great, so we decided to raise the house out of the ground. The ground floor is now our basement ( unfinished ), the first floor is now 10 ft up. The price of building a first floor out of the ground was much cheaper that just the $30K to dynamite a basement out. It actually worked out well since we live in VT ( very rural ) ...one side of the house overlooks a small river and the other looks out over a wetlands to the mountains.Anyway, this year we got both companies in ... both came in close to $40K .... OUCH! Even after a $10K grant, we don't have $30K.So I bought the forklift for only $850 .... with valves, a spare power unit (for an auto lift ... $500), and a plc to run the flow valve and control the interlocks ... I am thinking $3K to $4K in the project.I am a machinist by trade and also an electronic controls specialist. So most of this project is straight forward for me. I have interlocks ( so doors are lock when the car is in the wrong location), over travel switches (that kill power, not just tell the plc to shut down), timers to shut off a pump if it runs too long (I saw a contactor weld itself on once and a motor burn up). The main power is two 12 volt deep cycle batteries so it will run even if the power goes out. I have separate batteries for the controls so I don't loose them even if the batteries on the pump go low.My shop is not built yet (poured the pad last year ... will start it right after I finish this elevator ... wife is getting tired of living in the "basement"). I do have a welder inside the house so I can build the platform.It is an interesting project ... and I am learning a great deal about hydraulics!Really, I am sure most of the cost of medical equipment is driven by liability insurance and by insurance. If you look at the cost of anything with the word "medical" on it, it is usually a rip off. If I remember correctly, her last electric wheelchair (it has a tilt function so you can lay back ... to stop pressure soars) lists at $40K !!!!!!!!!!!!! She has insurance thought the state so I am not sure how much they actually paid for it but I am sure it was a lot.I have learned to build many items myself. My wife need care every 4 hours thus she had never traveled (she broke her neck when she was 12 diving into a pool and is paralyzed from the shoulders down).Just FYI ... here is a link to an old RV I converted 8 years ago so we could travel ( we ended up living in it for three years ... freezing when temps hit -30) http://mcsele.shutterfly.com/ Again, cost driven project .... $18K for the motor home ... they wanted $25K for a lift!Thanks .... Mike

RE: hose and fittings question ....

MikeHalloran

(Mechanical)

11 Mar 16 04:19
To view the photo book, you must have Adobe Flash installed.

Not happening; I gave up on Flash years ago. Sorry.

I'm sure it's a really nice piece of work.

Shutterfly says:To view the photo book, you must have Adobe Flash installed.Not happening; I gave up on Flash years ago. Sorry.I'm sure it's a really nice piece of work.

Mike Halloran
Pembroke Pines, FL, USA

RE: hose and fittings question ....

xtal01

(Mechanical)

(OP)

11 Mar 16 04:49

I understand .... Flash is something that still gives me trouble from time to time.

Pembroke Pines ... sounds nice. We made a trip last year ( needed a break between building and moving into the house ) to FL. My wife had never been to Disney ... she loved it!

Maye in a couple of years we will visit again and make it all the way down to the Keys.

She would love to move to FL ... wheelchairs in snow just don't mix.

Problem is her job and insurance is here ... that is why I moved here from SC.

Take care .... Mike

RE: hose and fittings question ....

xtal01

(Mechanical)

(OP)

12 Mar 16 00:53

OK ... so I called Royal Purple and talked with the Manager of Technical Services Department.

He said their fluid is compatible in any case that you would use petroleum based oil.

In fact he gave the example that you would not to use their synthetic oil with EPDM ... but you could also not use petroleum based fluid.

Thanks .... Mike

RE: hose and fittings question ....

tbuelna

(Aerospace)

13 Mar 16 00:23

I understand you are looking at this as a hobby project. But for the same amount of money you are going to spend refurbishing/converting an old hydraulic forklift you can buy

Do the wife a favor and install a commercial platform lift that already has all of the design bugs worked out. Save all of your creative energy for constructing your new workshop.

Best of luck to you.

xtal01-I understand you are looking at this as a hobby project. But for the same amount of money you are going to spend refurbishing/converting an old hydraulic forklift you can buy a commercial grade platform lift ($) . This 600 lb capacity platform lift is driven by an acme screw which seems like a more fail-safe approach than the forklift, and also one requiring less maintenance. It also comes with some nice features like an auto-folding ramp and sensors to detect obstacles below the platform.Do the wife a favor and install a commercial platform lift that already has all of the design bugs worked out. Save all of your creative energy for constructing your new workshop.Best of luck to you.

RE: hose and fittings question ....

xtal01

(Mechanical)

(OP)

13 Mar 16 03:45

We actually looked at one of these.

First problem is most (as the one you listed) only go up 8 ft (about 100 inches). We need to go up over 10 ft. This is where there seems to be a huge price jump.

Then they start with the adders.

You will need a motorized gate at the top and bottom .... big adders.

We actually tried one of these at a neighbors. One major problem was the size of the car. There was a legal limit to the size they can sell (I don't remember exactly their reasoning but something about platform lifts has a small size limit than a true elevator) though I do see on the one you found it says 60" optional and that would just work for her. My wife tired a couple of these from different manufacturers ( we even went to a disabilities expo to talk with manufacturers ). Her wheelchair is very large ... electric, center drive (6 wheels), motor on the back for the reclining seat function, ... to get the gate to close her feet hit the front. If I make my own, I can make the car any size I want. 60" literally just worked .... to make it easy for her not to hit each side I am aiming for just shy of 72" giving her 6" of clearance at each end.

And then there was the speed. I now they list 10 FPM ... not sure if that is realist .... most of the ones we saw were much slower. Not bad if you are going up 3 ft but 10 ft takes forever. I installed one of these last fall for an older neighbor ( found a used one for $ ). It was just to get her in the house ... about 3 ft up. It worked great for them. As you said, ramp folded up in the back to stop you from rolling off ( if you look at the one I built for the RV, I used the same idea ), the stop sensors are micro switches on a spring loaded plate on the bottom. The two biggest problems they had were 1) I still needed to put up a gate at the top so on one walked off the platform (in there case, I just used a chain) 2) the second problem was they had to load her one, run around the house since even with a manual chair they could not fit on the platform with a person, and meet them at the top. Again, my wife tried it and just could not fit on the platform.

The big jump in price the companies told me was 1) because we are going up 10 ft ... so you need a very heavy acme screw 2) automatic doors ... two stop stations both with electric doors that will interlock ... my wife could not pull in and then close a door/gate behind her and would not be able to open one that is behind her when she gets to the top.

I have built the house to give my wife a maximum independence. Even with no use of her hands, two years ago she learned to drive. She now had a van that she can get in and out of herself. For the first time in her life, she has the freedom to go where she wants, when she wants by herself. I want to make sure she can use the elevator completely on her own.

Really, these lifts are great to get up and down a couple of steps and have a small chair.

I do appreciate the advice thought .... it would have been much easier to just buy one if I could have found one that worked for us.

Mike

RE: hose and fittings question ....

mikemoss

(Industrial)

20 Mar 16 01:24

100R12 IS a psi, 4 wire isobaric hose that maintains the same pressure rating across all sizes. This hose was engineered for a torquing and twisting inviroment and still maintain a high isobaric pressure rating. This is found on harvesters, porters, excavators... This would most definatley be over kill for your application.

100R18 is a thermoplastic hose that commonly refured as lift truck hose fore its use in forklift lift cylinder tracks. This isnt what your looking for.

100R2 Is cheap, available everywhere amd high pressure ratings with smaller sizes. sometimes the simplest thing is the right thing.

However, if your operating pressure is sub- psi and your looking for a little more flex. Go with 100R17. This stuff is great for compact sitsuations where plumbling is a nightmare, or truck plows that are contantly moving in all directions.

As for bite to wire or standard hose fittings. I believe what your asking is skive or no skive fittings. People have been skiving for years but in the last 10 or 15 years, most major manufacturers have started there own no skive fitting revolution with the development of no skive ferrules for pressures up to psi. Make no mistake, these fittings are 1 million impulse cycle tested just like there skive counterparts. But ease of use, and no need for skiving tools allowed these fittings to become a hose makers choice. That being said, in pressures over psi skive fittings are still th only way to go.

RE: hose and fittings question ....

xtal01

(Mechanical)

(OP)

20 Mar 16 02:14

Awesome explanation!

It is funny how the suppliers can not tell me this information. That makes complete sense!

I did find out a bit more about the bite to wire or standard fittings. Both are no skive. There web site says: These hose ends are similar to Parker in that they provide a deep bite crimp into the rubber hose using steel &#;fins&#; inside the ferrule to dig into the rubber hose and &#;bite&#; into the steel braid or spiral

It suggested that these can be used on any hydraulic line (even two wire) but are "made" to be use on heavy duty line such as 4 wire.

As you may have noticed from my postings, I am a true "pain in the butt" (just ask my wife). I hate making any decision without a clear reason. I was the kid who always ask "why"?

Thanks so much again ..... Mike

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