Can I run glycol in a hot water heater?

A few weeks ago the relief valve on my boiler started blowing once or twice a day. I called the plumber who has worked on it and who replaced the indirect water heater 4 years ago and he suggested I shut off the valve that allows fresh water into the system, which I did. A few days later I started getting a strong smell of propylene glycol in my domestic hot water. I called the plumber back and he suggested that the only possibility is that the water heater is bad. The smell went away after a few days (I am assuming because I lost all of the glycol out of the system) but the relief valve continues to blow with some frequency. It will not blow for a few days and then release 1/2 gallon of water in 24 hours or so. The warranty on the hot water tank is such that I have to pay for a new one and send the old one back. The manufacturer will test it and if they find it faulty they will refund the cost of the new one. The plumber is convinced that this is the only possibility at this point given the symptoms, but it is going to be a very expensive situation for me if we replace the hot water heater and the manufacturer determines there was nothing wrong with it. My questions are:
Would there be any other explanation for getting glycol into the system? And is there way to test the water heater without sending it back to be sure that this is the problem?
Thanks so much for any suggestions you can offer.

Goto Huateng to know more.

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Hot Water Heat - Glycol questions

Thank you to everyone for your replies. I'd like to clarify, just to make certain my request is clear. I have a few questions.

Here's a photo of the system:
http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j306/RichardLeBlanc/?action=view&current=38.jpg



The first item involves the hot water heat. The system is, indeed, a closed system, but it uses water and as needed it gets it from the well (on-demand). I suspect the small tank next to the furnace (about two gallons) is the "water make-up" system.

If the efficiency is decreased, that's fine. Again, we'll probably only be there a few days during each winter and can use the natural gas fireplace for cool spring or fall days.

What I am hoping might be an option is this:

To ELIMINATE the water source, so that the system is filled with a fluid, is completely sealed and closed, and that it never needs additional fluid (water or anti-freeze).

Is this realistic? Does the heat come from steam? I have never had this type of heat.

If these systems are capable of using an anti-freeze, does it ever need a recharge or additional fluid if there are no leaks?

Now for specific questions to the replies:

Frenchie: If the system really can be drained and refilled with ease, how do you ensure nothing is left in this intricate system?

Bob NH: It's the water supply to the furnace that I'm trying to eliminate (if possible). Again, I know nothing about these systems.

I'd like to avoid anything electric. I've found electric heat sources to be too costly to use and would prefer to simply shut EVERYTHING off after draining water lines (except the heating system if it is charged with anti-freeze). I would also ensure the water softener is addressed.

Again, thanks to everyone for the suggestions.

Richard

Thank you to everyone for your replies. I'd like to clarify, just to make certain my request is clear. I have a few questions.Here's a photo of the system:The first item involves the hot water heat. The system is, indeed, a closed system, but it uses water and as needed it gets it from the well (on-demand). I suspect the small tank next to the furnace (about two gallons) is the "water make-up" system.If the efficiency is decreased, that's fine. Again, we'll probably only be there a few days during each winter and can use the natural gas fireplace for cool spring or fall days.What I am hoping might be an option is this:To ELIMINATE the water source, so that the system is filled with a fluid, is completely sealed and closed, and that it never needs additional fluid (water or anti-freeze).Is this realistic? Does the heat come from steam? I have never had this type of heat.If these systems are capable of using an anti-freeze, does it ever need a recharge or additional fluid if there are no leaks?Now for specific questions to the replies:Frenchie: If the system really can be drained and refilled with ease, how do you ensure nothing is left in this intricate system?Bob NH: It's the water supply to the furnace that I'm trying to eliminate (if possible). Again, I know nothing about these systems.I'd like to avoid anything electric. I've found electric heat sources to be too costly to use and would prefer to simply shut EVERYTHING off after draining water lines (except the heating system if it is charged with anti-freeze). I would also ensure the water softener is addressed.Again, thanks to everyone for the suggestions.Richard

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