Continuous LiFePO charging?

These are LiFePO4's, so the voltage won't change a whole lot. That is why using a voltage dependent charger is not recommended. A LiFePO4 could go discharge at 10A for 30 mins and barely even drop in voltage. Even the most robust (non-LiFePO4 variants) would drop a few 10's of a volt during discharge.
This is why using a voltage based charger on them is a bad idea. It would either kick on/off way too often (meaning voltage trigger is only 0.1V or less from full voltage) or it would go for a long time and not start charging until the battery is about half used (trigger around 0.3V from full charge voltage). ((these numbers are based on 1s1p assumptions))

That's why i was saying you'd want a smarter charger that could detect wattage, or coulombs, going in/out of the battery and charge accordingly. They are a little more expensive, but they are far more reliable and won't beat your battery to bits electrically.

You can't just toss a dumb charger on a LiFePO4 and leave it and expect it to keep the battery in good condition for very long (and never leave one unattended on LiFePO4's or any lithium based battery, for that matter). The only good ones, and reliable ones, are the smart ones that do true monitoring of the battery.

Otherwise, you could end up with a destroyed battery after a year of abuse and have to replace it. Batteries aren't cheap, even if you can source the individual cells at low cost, it still costs time/money to replace.

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Full - 100% is relative.
1) For really "Full" that means 3.65V per cell. BUT that will always settle to 3.550 +/- a bit within an hour after charging has stopped. So really, 3.55 is FULL in that sense. That settling is normal for LFP.
2) We recommend and most people are more conservative do, to leave a minimum of 5% at the top & bottom as a margin for longevity & extended cycles. This effectively puts the top at 3.46 and the bottom to 2.62, which is perfect as the Main Voltage Curve is 3.000-3.450
3) The amount of AH below 3.000 and above 3.500 is minimal due to the Hi/Low "Cliff" as this is the ends of the voltage curve and quite steep.

Using my 24V system as an example.
I maintain my "Full Status" at 27.9V or 3.48 per cell and this is done by using FLOAT which is Constant Voltage adaptable current. 29.200 is 3.65V per cell. My cutoffs are set to 22.0V or 2.750 per cell but I allow for a 10 second delay for LVD (Low Volt Disconnect) because a start surge from the fridge or something can momentarily cause a voltage sag when it starts, so a delay prevents the BMS from shutting down if it is in the lower end of it's voltage range.

Now my battery bank is at 100% by noon on a Sunny day, then it goes to float. My BMS' will take a trickle charge and balance the cells at the float voltage till they are topped off and balanced at which point it puts the batteries into "storage mode". Float from the SCC (Solar Charge Controller) will continue to provide 27.9V and minimal amps (enough to service the running volts/amps the inverter needs) till there is a higher demand from the inverter, at which time the Amps will increase relative to what is available from the solar side. If there is enough solar power to feed what the inverter needs,k the batteries stay in "storage mode". If there is not enough solar, then the extra is pulled from the batteries while required. Once that load goes away the Float will provide the amount of Amps needed to bring the batteries back up to 27.9 "full" which usually does not take too much.

So, I have designated my 100% as 27.9V and my 0% as 22.0V which is within that 5&5 margin. The batteries are NOT static at FULL, they are still active and do get small discharges & charges through the day after they have reached full. So again, this is not static, it is active, and no problem for the batteries at all.

Leaving LFP at "100%" and not connected to anything "active" is where things are not so good and this is where damage can happen. Storing LFP for Longterm is best at no more than 50% charge or 3.200 +/- 0.100 per cell. This is why all LFP that is shipped out is usually in & around 3.2 V.

Please see links in my signature for more info, including an LFP Voltage Chart and more which will help you work through this stuff.
Hope it Helps, Good Luck

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