Whether its our popular fiberglass post used to support woven wire fence and high tensile fence, or the sturdy O'Brien step-in post used for quick management of electric polybraid, Powerflex has the options for you to maintain an adaptive and easy to manage system on your farm. 

If you want to learn more, please visit our website Puhuasheng.

There are many choices for grazers to consider when it comes to fence posts, and as usual, we suggest emphasizing quality and durability when making your choice. That's why we offer solutions that will hold up in the toughest conditions, and outclass alternative products that break down after only a few seasons. 

Powerpost and step-ins in use&#;&#;

How do I plan a paddock system?

Planning a paddock system depends on your land size and the number of paddocks you want to set up. For large pastures, consider strip grazing with permanent or semi-permanent posts, and using temporary posts to horizontally split strips into smaller paddock rotations as needed. 
 
Rotation frequency depends on the environment, amount of animals, and size of your paddocks. It is often recommended to rotate your animals every day, which can be relatively easy with an adequate paddock plan. No matter what you choose as a grazing strategy, It's important to periodically let your pasture rest. Give us a call at 417-741- if you have more questions about your setup.

Temporary Post Solutions

Temporary post solutions include step-in posts, pigtail posts, or our innovative PowerPost for reel management. Having a plethora of temporary options in your grazing operation can make your life easier. 

All of these posts compliment the use of polybraid coupled with polybraid reels. The polybraid is wrapped around your reel, and the reel can hang from your fence or from your powerpost. Whenever you need to move the fence, just wind up the polybraid into your reel, collect your step-ins or pigtails, and transport the equipment to your next location. Many grazers use a wagon or four wheeler to help with portability depending on the size of their operation.

You can browse our store for multiple step-in post, pigtail post, and fiberglass post options of varying color/size.

PowerPost Reel Stand & Multi-Function Post

The PowerPost Reel Stand is unlike any other post you can find. Heavy-duty enough to withstand any combination of elements, it makes for an easy to move support structure for your reels. This is especially helpful if your paddock system needs to change angles without the support of your permanent high-tensile perimeter fence, or if you need to create paddocks with wide size variety.

The Powerpost Reel Stand can support up to three reels, double or single hook reels, short stretches or up to 1/4 mile stretches, and comes with a built in driver that allows it to be self-driven into the ground and reverse driven out of the ground. You can use one or more to create diverse grazing systems of any size within your program. 

O'Briens Treadaline Step-In Post

Our most popular step-in and one of the most durable step-in solutions a grazer can find. While typical step-ins provide a great solution for moving reel setups frequently, the plastic hooks can easily break off and the posts can degrade in the sun, reducing the shelf life of the post itself. The O'Brien Step-Ins are built for maximum durability and UV resistance with a superior hook design. Our customers claim they hold up much longer than other step-in posts they've tried.

These posts are not ideal for high-tensile wire, which requires a more permanent post solution for additional structural support and longevity of the post.

• High strength H-profile post
• Four positions for 1.5" polytapes
• Eight positions for PolyBraid
• Premium grade UV-stabilized polymers
• Long galvanized stake embedded above the foot peg for added strength

Power Tread-In Post

Similar to the O'Brien post, the Power Tread-In is a more affordable solution but with similar durability.

• Proven performer with a history of durability.

• UV-stabilized polymer. 

• 8 holders for poly wire and a holder for poly tape.

• Each post is 42&#; tall.

Is it normal to use step-in posts to manage livestock paddocks?

Step-in posts are your typical choice for paddock management because they can be used on the fly. They can be easily put into the ground, easily pulled from the ground, and are lightweight. If you have a large property, it is impossible to use permanent posts to cover every possible grazing scenario, and you will want the versatility of step-in posts and polybraid reels to make for a more flexible system. 

It can be cumbersome constantly managing temporary posts between paddocks, and many farmers choose a more permanent solution like fiberglass posts to manage their most frequently used paddocks. Plan your paddock management ahead of time with inputs and outputs in mind. Sometimes a place where you might first think step-ins should be used actually warrants fiberglass posts instead, due to the frequency of your rotation. While such an adjustment seems trivial, it can account for a lot of time and money saved. For this reason, plan your rotation ahead of time before making your purchasing decisions.

Pig Tail Posts

If you're managing cattle, horses, or livestock that are well trained to polybraid fence a pig-tail system with a single line of polybraid can be superior to step-ins. They hold up quite well and are also quick to move and light weight. If, however, you are using multiple lines and need more hooks/holes on the post, you will need to use step-ins or fiberglass posts for your paddock.

Pigtail posts are a popular option especially for grazers of cattle or animals that are easily trained to single strand divides.

• Over all height is 30" 
• From the top of the Foot Plate to bottom of Loop where PolyBraid rest is 28"
• Second wire can be added at 16" from top of foot plate
• 1/4" thick post with a nice wide foot plate

                                           &#;&#;pigtail posts in use

Permanent Fiberglass Post Solutions

Permanent post solutions are used for a perimeter fence, which is often set up with high tensile single strand or woven wire. Because of the tension in this wire as well as the long term durability needs, it is not recommended to use temporary plastic or pigtail posts for this part of your system.

Grazers tend to prefer fiberglass or polymer for these parts of their operation, and our UV resistant/industry proven fiberglass posts are well suited as a superior option. These options combined with your corner post setup make for a complete and long-term solution.

You can browse our store for multiple size and pre-drill options.

11/16" SunGUARD Pointed & Drilled Fiberglass Post

Save a lot of work drilling by instead picking these pre-drilled posts. Use with 30-50 foot spacing and quickly guide your wire through the holes. 

UV resistant and very strong. The coating on the post prevents glass slivers and they are very easy to manage.

Choose a variety of sizes.

• 25 year warranty on the coating that prevents glass slivers
• ldeal for rotational grazing
• Lightweight, yet durable
• Easy to handle and install
• Posts flex upon impact and return upright without popping out of ground
• THESE POSTS ARE PRE-DRILLED

For more pigtail post for farminformation, please contact us. We will provide professional answers.

1-1/4" Fiberglass Rod Post

Our most popular permanent post. These posts are extremely durable and long lasting. UV resistant, no ruptures, ground shorting, or splinters will occur with these tried and true posts. 

This post is an ideal solution for your intermediary posts that prop up your fence between corner posts.

We offer bulk discount pricing on these posts. Coloration of each post will somewhat vary just by nature of the fiberglass.

                                 Fiberglass rod in &#;&#;use

How do I set up a corner post?

In a permanent high tensile system you will need structurally sound corner post solutions for the places where your fence makes dramatic 90 degree turns. Grazers tend to choose between a horizontal brace or triangle brace system (floating brace), and tend to use large treated wood posts driven deeply into the ground for these corner systems. Grazers choose their corner brace system with cost of instillation and ease of installation in mind. We often recommend a floating brace assembly, as it is both structurally sound, cost efficient, and relatively easy to install.

The variance and complexity of different corner post assemblies is a subject in itself, and will be the point of a future blog post. For now we invite you to view our how-to on how to install a floating brace assembly, and invite you to give us a call at 417-741-.

There are some subtle things I do when building temporary fence that make a huge difference. It&#;s the difference between having the cows where you want them or having the cows in the neighbor&#;s field. It&#;s the difference between a fence that shorts out and a fence that registers nearly 10,000 volts.

Keep in mind I&#;m talking temporary divisions, not permanent or seasonal perimeter fencing. The kind of fence you build each day to hold the cows that one day only. We typically make paddock subdivisions with a mix of pigtail posts and rebar posts. I use pigtails on the ends and rebar in the middle. I would prefer to have all pigtails but they are more expensive than rebar and money is an object. But you have to do it right to be successful. Let&#;s start with a common error I see in our fencing. I&#;ll exaggerate each of these to make the point obvious.

Do you see what is wrong? The tension on the string will pull the string out of the insulator. We are just one stray deer away from disaster. Disaster! Any small disturbance and the wire will pull free of the insulator, the fence will hit the ground and the cows will walk out. So we try to put the wire on the far side of the post like this:

This is more like it. But even this has flaws. Too much tension on the fence (possibly caused by deer or just overtightening) can twist the insulator and allow the wire to short against the metal post.

So the real right way to manage a sharp angle is to use a pigtail. The pigtail wraps entirely around the wire, holding it securely with no chance of a short. On top of that, pigtail posts have a foot that will lend stability to the corner. And they are flexible so when that tree branch falls on the fence the corner will give, hopefully preventing the wire from breaking.

Which is just fine when you are dealing with single-wire temporary fencing. But you aren&#;t always using single-wire temporary fencing. Which is why you should build your temporary fence in straight lines whenever possible. However, pigtail posts are sized for cow noses, not pig noses and certainly not sheep noses.

Now, I have to share a caution about the pigtail post above. I have several that now short out. Here&#;s the deal. See that open end on the coated wire above? Water goes in there when it rains. Water expands when it freezes. Brittle plastic coating doesn&#;t take abuse. Split plastic coating gives the circuit a shortcut to ground. What a pain in the rear. Check your pigtails early and often.

Finally, at the end of the fence is the reel. We hang our reels from the perimeter fence when possible. Otherwise they hang from pigtails. But there is a right and a wrong way to do this too. The twist of the pigtail can either help or hurt us. You may not understand this by looking at pictures but the lean of the reel has either solid pressure against the pigtail or it will fall off in a slight breeze, shorting out your fence, allowing your cows to go for a field trip. This is right:

This is wrong:

And for Pete&#;s sake, make sure the reel is off to the side of the post, not allowing the wire to make contact with the post!

There is more. If your fence runs along a hill, the transition from slope to flat can be problematic for hooked insulators. You need both hooks to have a firm grasp of the wire as below:

But if I turn that same insulator around, putting the wire on the other side of the post only one hook has a secure hold on the wire:

These insulators are made with two hooks, not just one. You need to leverage both hooks. Otherwise, the cows will get out. Believe me. I have some experience with this.

One final tip: always carry a fence tester with you. Ours can turn off our fence remotely&#;bonus. It&#;s not enough to know that the fence snaps when shorted. You need to know if you are at the full 10,000 volts or just 5,000. If you don&#;t, the cows will get out.

Let me know in the comments below if you have any other fence building tips.

 

 

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