Usefull answers

Calculating grout consumption includes some expected loss or waste. If the amount you have isn't enough to cover the surface area, it may be due to one of these common mistakes:

A. During the mosaic installation phase:

• Inside-out placement of the gummed paper sheet; the paper was positioned on the back of the mosaic.

• Using a notched trowel with smaller notches than recommended, leading to deeper joints between sheets and requiring more grout.

B. During grouting:

• Improper spreading of the product, resulting in waste.

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Hi Guys,

Nice to find a place where people think like I do. I've been a tile contractor for 4 years now, mainly self-taught, basing my work on recommendations from the locally produced 'Good Tiling Practice' book, manufacturers' technical specs, advice from my Laticrete importer, and a solid application of common sense.
I strive to execute my work to the highest standard using the best materials and methods, even if it takes longer and makes less profit. My customers are happy and this approach generates more work than I can handle.
I'm pleased to find this discussion post and get advice from real professionals. Tile setting in New Zealand is relatively new, with no national standards or professional qualifications, so it's rife with amateurs and profiteers.

I’ve just been offered a job that poses many questions and I'm hoping someone can help:

Description: 140sqm glass mosaic swimming pool, including a weir (water spilling over a long straight edge towards the ocean/horizon).

The concrete is at least 1' thick and vibrated. Form release agents have been used. Should it be waterproofed (9235)? If so, what about the release agents? Laticrete recommends water blasting off the top 3-5mm of concrete and rendering to remove release agents that may inhibit the bonding of 9235. That’s a lot of extra work, is it really necessary?

I’ve never set glass mosaics before. It looks straightforward, but water can damage the grout if not balanced at all times. Epoxy grout seems the better option but I’ve only applied it to small jobs (1-2sqm). What should I do about adhesive coming through the joints (this is where 4237 mixed with grout as the adhesive appeals to me)?
Will normal sanded grout mixed with 1776 not perform well in this environment?

What are the possible effects of not waterproofing?

Will silicone be alright as the sealant for movement joints?

The pool is to be salt water.

There’s not much work like this in my area, so I’m hesitant to turn it down. There’s so much I can learn, but I don't want to learn the hard way—it could get costly!

Use unsanded grout for the glass mosaic. 100% silicone for expansion joints with the proper primer.

Thanks for your replies,

I'm a little surprised that no-one has thoughts on whether the pool should be waterproofed before tile setting. Is this so elementary that you’re embarrassed to reply? I can’t find any related articles.

Who tiles all those thousands of pools in California & Florida?

Phil NZ

As for pools in Florida, we usually just tile over a "scratch coat" surface without waterproofing. We've done many complete pool tile jobs in South Florida and this is the norm.

Hi Phil,

Concrete pools are still done occasionally. Yes, you'll need to address the oil or form release agents. Sand blasting is the easiest method.

Your “render” is our “fat mud” or wall mortar. Depending on the needed build-up, you may need a preliminary coat or “scratch.” This coat is roughed up to create a tooth for the final layer to lock into.

Tiles are fixed to the final coat with thin set mortar.

This pool would not be waterproofed unless it is above ground.

This pool is poured concrete, not gunite. I’m not quite sure what a 'scratch coat' is, or what 'fat floating' means.

From my research, poured concrete was superseded by gunite or shotcrete long ago, but it must still be done sometimes?

Has anyone had problems with form release agents on concrete surfaces interfering with tile bonding?

Phil

Hi Phil,

Concrete pools are still done on occasion. Yes, you'll need to address the oil or form release agents on the forms. The easiest method is sand blasting.

Your “render” is our “fat mud” or wall mortar. Depending on the required build-up, you might need a preliminary coat or “scratch.” This coat is roughened up to create a tooth for the final layer to lock into.

Tiles are fixed to the final coat with thin set mortar.

This pool would not be waterproofed unless it is above ground.

Thanks for your replies,

I'm a little surprised that no-one has thoughts on whether the pool should be waterproofed before tile setting. Is this so elementary that you’re embarrassed to reply? I can’t find any related articles.

Who tiles all those thousands of pools in California & Florida?

Phil NZ

This pool is poured concrete, not gunite. I’m not quite sure what a 'scratch coat' is, or what 'fat floating' means.

From my research, poured concrete was superseded by gunite or shotcrete long ago, but it must still be done sometimes?

Has anyone had problems with form release agents on concrete surfaces interfering with the tile bonding?

Phil

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Hi Phil,

I’ve never seen anyone waterproof a pool, either. Most pools here are Gunite concrete. We first float a layer of "fat mud" over the areas to be tiled, then install the tiles with thin-set mortar. The pool plasterers plaster up to what you’ve tiled. If the entire pool is to be tiled, it’s done in stages.

Hi Phil,

Concrete pools are still done on occasion. Yes, you’ll need to address the oil or form release agents. The easiest method is sand blasting.

Your “render” is our “fat mud” or wall mortar. Depending on the required build-up, you might need a preliminary coat or “scratch.” This coat is roughened up to create a tooth for the final layer to lock into.

Tiles are fixed to the final coat with thin set mortar.

This pool would not be waterproofed unless it is above ground.

This pool is poured concrete, not Gunite. From my research, poured concrete was superseded by Gunite or shotcrete long ago, but it must still be done sometimes?

Has anyone had problems with form release agents on concrete surfaces interfering with tile bonding?

Phil

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